(Community Matters) Schwarzer Hahn Restaurant reportedly the top restaurant in Germany’s Rheinland/Pflaz region – no arguments from either of us after dinner last night. Chef Neugebauer and manager Andres Weber (pictured here) dish out their delicacies like jewelers display and coddle their most precious stones. Love that Andres spent plenty of time with us, discussing my likes and dislikes before deciding which wines to pair with each course. The food so spectacular it really does exceed my range of taste and discernment. And, we were introduced to complex, fine wines (all from the region) including sparkling pinot noir, riesling (natch), sauvignon blanc, a gran cru cuvee of pinot blanc & chardonnay and a table made cuvee of riseling brut and sweet riesling – he called the latter a troll schappen [I’m sure I wrote down wrong but phonetic]. Evidently the latter a regional tradition among friends who pass around the concoction before separating.
I’m gonna record each course below but this is for my own archival purposes. Admittedly, not so interesting to anyone else.
Appertif – regional sparkling pinot noir*
First amuse bouche: eel ceviche, beef tartar, wine mousse and bread sticks with raisin*
* both served in the bar
Corriander & sun dried tomato (separate) rolls and cheese brioche
Second amuse bouche: Clam in dill; chickpea in salt water jelly; a rabbit ravioli; and wild salmon with an orange butter – served with a dry and spartan riseling (2009 Konigsbacher Olberg)
Atlantic sole & octopus in a kumquat sauce served with a regional sauvignon blanc (2009 Winery Von Winning) Steven: Razor clams & a scallop on a cream paella hidden by fresh cucumbers
Strudel with Vom St. Pierre (fish) & lobster on apricot polenta and wild mushroom sauce with a gran cru cuvee (pinot blanc & chardonnay – Pas de Deux, cuvee Waire, Winery M Gaul) ST: breast and leg of wild duck with grapes and chestnuts in bacon sauce Rouennais and Pfalz – this most exquisite. The duck neck was filled with minced duck. The duck leg meat and green vegetables minced and served almost as a spring roll.
Third amuse bouche: pumpkin cake with a pickled pumpkin layered topping on a very thin butter cream. (oh yeah, forgot this pairing – he introduced me to a Gran Marnier Cuvee du Cent Cinquantenaire. Loved it. Made only of at least 50 year cognacs with essence of orange. It’s on my list!)
Dessert: cheese curd souffle with pear chutney w/ Tahitian vanilla, caramel and pepper foam. Paired with the troll schappen [sic] – a riesling brut (Reichais von Buhl) & a sweet riesling riesling (2007 Trochenbeezen)
Fourth amuse bouche: just couldn’t do it. Didn’t even let him explain to us – a multi layered cake of some sort. Instead opted for the take home chocolate truffles. Steven was tired so even passed up coffee and the fine cigars
Community Matters 